You are here because you want to learn about how TCA application is done on dark skin.
The key difference between black and white skin is based on the type of melanin produced. Black skin contains eumelanin while white skin produces pheomelanin. Black skin population has a high count of melanocytes which are larger in size. This is a factor to be considered during application of TCA.
When TCA is applied on to skin, it causes protein coagulation and denaturation as it penetrates the skin. The coagulation involves proteins that make up the cells of the epidermis and dermis, as well as the blood vessels (depending on depth of penetration). Once it penetrates the skin, it cannot be neutralized as it self-neutralizes once it is has coagulated a certain amount of protein. During this process, an inflammation occurs which triggers the skin repair/regenation process after which the skin peeling is observed. The inflammation can causes redness, pains, itchy and sometimes swellings which last for hours to few days. This same inflammation that triggers regeneration, may also trigger large amount of melanin production that are deposited on the inflammed area and this leads to formation of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). This is mostly experienced in dark skin because of the anatomy of the melanocytes ( the cell responsible for producing melanin pigment).
Despite these, a dark skin can still achieve excellent result if the application process is properly done. To solve this , proper prepping needs to be done before TCA peel is applied on the skin.
TCA peel is like a tool, result depends on how best it is used. It is not the “one size fit all” kind of treatment. Different skin will respond differently as we all have different kind of skin;
An oily skin will respond differently,
A dry skin will respond differently,
A sensitive skin will respond differently
A fairer skin will respond differently
A darker skin will respond differently.
The current conditions of your skin will determine the result you get.
You need to consider;
1) if you have been using products which thins out your skin,
2)have you been using products that disrupt your skin barrier,
3) is your skin very thin or thick,
4)have you done a peel before,
5) is your skin properly exfoliated
6) do you have an skin infection
7) product penetration on skin.
Before a doctor treats a wound, he has to stop the bleeding, same applies to TCA application on dark skin.
Before application, the melanocytes cells producing melanin should be put on halt mode so when inflammation is triggered in the skin by the peel, it reduces the chance of PIH.
By doing this, a depigmenting agent is used around the treated area for minimum of 3weeks , this keeps production of melanin at a minimum so it doesn’t participate in the process.
Also for even penetration, it is advising to keep the skin layer ready to receive the peel by exfoliating the treated area with mild AHA solution. This is to take off the dead skin that may interfere with the even penetration and also soften the skin for increased penetration instead of letting the peel just burning through the dead skin without making it deep into the skin.
Another way of preparing the skin is through the use of Tretinion. Tretinion helps in treatment of hyperpigmentation, it helps to restore fast rate of cell renewal for those old cells that haven’t been replaced by new cells thereby slowing down exfoliation process of the skin. Tretinion also helps to thicken the epidermal skin layer and this will help those thinned skin clients whose skin has been thinned by using bad skin care products.
The skin prepping process takes roughly about 2-4wks to complete and then a break period of about two days is needed before the main peel applicatio.
On application day, the skin is cleansed and oil free as oil can interfere with result. Make sure you wipe off oil with alcohol and let it dry out.
What you need for the procedure would be;
Gloves
TCA peel
Cotton wool / Applicator brush
Water
Baking soda
Depigmenting agent
Moisturizer
Sunscreen
Step 1: Numb skin if you can’t bear the stinging effect but this is optional.
Step 2: Wear your gloves to avoid the peel touching your hands so you don’t experience peeling on your hands. On the cleaned skin, apply a layer of the TCA peel and wait few secs for the peel to be absorbed.
Step 3: After few seconds, apply another layer of a deeper penetration of the TCA solution
Step 4: Watch your skin and read it to find a reaction. By now you should start to experience some stinging sensation and started noticing some whitish frosting going on with your skin.
Step 5: Use a fan to cool the area so as to reduce the stinging sensation.
Step 6: Note that the more solution that penetrates your skin would determine how deep you will peel. Check your skin to see if it can take a 3rd layer application. If it can, then add one more layer. Also if you are trying to peel hard areas like knuckles, feet, hands, etc, you may need to apply minimum of 3layers depending on what concentration and how deep you want to peel.
Step 7: By now, around 2-5mins you should be ready to wash off the peel. The TCA molecules that has penetrated the skin will keep coagulation process going and neutralize itself when completed but you can wash off and neutralize the acid molecules which are still on the surface with a base solution. Mix good amount of baking soda in a bowl of water and use to rinse the skin then rinse with clean water
Step 8: Clean skin dry, apply your depigmenting cream, your moisturizer and lastly your sunscreen.
The process should last within 5mins and then you are done. You don’t need to do the application everyday. Just once application and then wait to peel within 7-10days depending on the thickness and dryness of the treated area. The face peels faster as it s thinned and it produces more oil compared to the other parts of the body.
For choice of moisturizer, a moisturizer that increase and lock down skin water content (hydration) or/and any oil that promotes cell growth/repair will be great idea.
A choice of moisturizing cream would be one that contains urea as urea is a humectant that increase skin water level which is highly needed as the peel strips up moisture from the skin which we have to restore back to help the regeneration process.
A choice of moisturizing oil would be emu oil as it helps to promote cell growth and helps with skin repairs. It speeds up the recovery process of the skin cell regeneration and very moisturizing.
What to expect After a TCA peel application
After your peel application, next day you will feel tightness and dryness around your skin. The severity of the tightness depends on how deep the peel penetrated.
Also you will noticed your skin is getting darker which is normal as the skin needs to die off to shed away so new ones can take their place. Shedding should starts from 4th day but that depends on what part you peeling. Knuckles and feet could take longer time so don’t panic if you don’t see any peeling signs within a week.
During peeling, you are not allowed to force peel, allow the skin to raise up on its own so it can raise along with the blemishes on the top skin.
During this recovery period, your skin will be sensitive to anything and your result with be determined by the aftercare you introduce.
Lot of moisture is needed to help the skin recovery process. While the new cells are migrating to the top epidemal layer, pigments also will need to migrate to the top to be distributed evenly. With exposure to the sun, the melanin distribution could be uneven which could form hypopigmentation or hyperpigmentation so you want to stay away from the sun, also from products that could Inflamme the skin and cause it to produce more melanin. This could cause the area to redarken.
On the new skin, apply your depigmenting agent , something to control the pigment production through out the recovery period of 1mnth.
Your skin could look all patchy and uneven but with time it gets back to normal.
With proper application and care, excellent results could be achieved otherwise individual could develop hyperpigmentati and sometimes scarrings.
If you didn’t get the best result, you can always try again a month after.